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FAQ & Troubleshooting

BLAST-TEC PRO ROTATING NOZZLES

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How to install your Blast-Tec Pro repair kit

 

Instead of replacing your whole nozzle, you may be able to use a repair kit for extended life and lower overall operating costs. This kit replaces only the common wear parts of the nozzle.

Repair Kit Includes: Inlet screen, Mini-rotor Assembly, and Seat Retainer Assembly.

Tools Required: Small screwdriver, and needle nose pliers.

Step 1: Unscrew nozzle body (not inlet panel nut). Dispose of the existing rotor assembly and seat retainer assembly.

Step 2: Insert new seat retainer with o-ring and rubber boot.

Step 3: Insert rotor assembly with the nozzle side facing down.

Step 4: Use a needle nose pliers to remove the old inlet screen and throw away. (You may need to use a screwdriver to loosen the screen so you can grab
onto it)


 

Step 5: Use the screwdriver to push the new inlet screen into place.

Step 6: Screw nozzle back together hand tight. 

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My nozzle stream is failing to rotate (Lasering).

  1. Check your pressure. For proper rotation, pressure for this nozzle should be set at a minimum of 800 PSI at nozzle.  (1200 PSI Max.)
  2. Check inlet screen for debris. Clean and/or replace.
  3. Take nozzle apart, check for clogs in the roter.  Clean and/or replace.
  4. Nozzle may fail to rotate based on normal wear and tear. Try inserting a repair kit.
  5. The cross holes on the nozzle inlet may have eroded due to particulate or high-acid reclaim water. Replace nozzle.
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Water is going around the nozzle and not through it (Blow-By).

  1. May have a loose body or loose connection. Tighten the nozzle body and inlet connection.
  2. Check inlet screen for debris. Clean and/or replace.
  3. Take nozzle apart, check for clogs in the rotor. Clean and/or replace.
  4. Nozzle may fail based on normal wear and tear. Try inserting a repair kit.
  5. The cross holes on the nozzle inlet may have eroded due to particulate or high-acid reclaim water. Replace nozzle.
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No flow, low flow, or not enough impingement.

  1. Increase your pump pressure. (Pump must remain between 800 PSI (min) and 1200 PSI (max). Check for desired result.
  2. Move applicator or nozzle closer to the substrate. Check for desired result.
  3. Change nozzle to a larger nozzle size (higher flow rate). Check for desired result.
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Too much impingement, nozzle is causing damage.

  1.  Decrease your pump pressure. (Pump must remain between 800 PSI (min) and 1200 PSI (max). Check for desired result.
  2. Change nozzle to a smaller nozzle size (lower flow rate). Check for desired result.
  3. Move applicator or nozzle further from the substrate. Check for desired result.

Injectors

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I am getting no flow from my injector.

This could be caused by several factors:

  1. If the valve is not functioning correctly, ensure that the primary air regulator is set to 100 psi and that the valve is receiving a signal.
  2. Check the injector for clogs. Blow out debris or replace.
  3. Make sure that the system has a water supply.
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My injector won’t draw chemical.

This is undoubtedly our most frequently asked question, and the answer is almost always back-pressure which should not exceed 66 psi . To trouble-shoot exactly where the back-pressure is being created, try the following steps.

I have a vacuum gauge available.

  1. Connect a vacuum gauge to the hose barb. (If you don’t have a vacuum gauge available, skip to step 4.)
    • If the vacuum reads >22 in/Hg, the metering tip is clogged and needs to be replaced.
    • If the vacuum reads <22 in/Hg, continue to step 2.
  2. Remove a nozzle on the arch or the chemical feed line from the foam generator and re-test the vacuum
    • If the retest vacuum reads >22 in/Hg, back pressure is being created. Continue to step 3.
    • If the retest vacuum reads <22 in/Hg, replace the injector and re-test.
  3. Try these steps to determine the area creating the back-pressure. Re-test after each:
    • Clean the nozzle tips
    • Loosely replace the media in the foam generator. Do not over-pack.
    • Decrease air pressure used for foaming.

I do not have a vacuum gauge available.

  1. Check the chemical hose, foot valve, metering tip and injector hose barb for clogs. Clean out or replace if necessary.
  2. Try a smaller injector which will reduce the flow and the back-pressure.
  3. Clean or replace downstream check-valves.
  4. Remove a nozzle at the arch, allowing water to free-flow which will reduce back-pressure.
  5. Use larger tubing to reduce back-pressure.

Other Issues

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The valve won’t open or is leaking air.

Ensure the primary air regulator is reading at least 60 psi. Turn up to 80-90 psi and try again. If this does not solve the problem remove the valve from the manifold and check o-ring condition. Replace and lubricate o-rings if needed.

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The flow to the arch is too low.

Try the following to solve the issue:

  1. Try a larger injector to increase flow.
  2. Ensure the system pressure is set to 200 psi.
  3. The foam generator may be plugged or collapsed. Clean or replace the foaming media loosely.
  4. The downstream plumbing may be too restrictive. Increase the size of the plumbing and tubing, ensure that check valves are cleaned and/or reduce the elbows in the line.
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The system will not regulate up to 200 psi.

Check the following to correct the problem:

  1. The pump may not be primed properly. Check the installation manual for pump priming instructions.
  2. There may be debris in the pump regulator. Remove and clean-out or replace if necessary.
  3. Verify motor rotation. Reverse the rotation by interchanging 2 of the three leads. The pump should run in the direction of the arrow on the pump housing.
  4. Ensure that too many valves are not being opened at once. The system is limited by the size of the pump and injectors. You may increase the flow by adding another pump or reducing the size/quantity of injectors open.

Pumps

Please see the installation manual for proper pump priming and set-up instructions.

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How to clean your wye strainer. 

Clean monthly to see how and what particles get caught. If more particles are caught than expected ie. Significant screen area clogged by debris, clean more frequently. If less debris is expected, clean less often. A CLOGGED SCREEN WILL SIGNIFICANTLY DECREASE THE LIFE OF PUMP!

 TOOLS NEEDED:
• 1 1/4” crescent wrench and compressed air or wire brush. 

STEP 1 - Shut off inlet water supply to pump.

STEP 2 - Bleed off residual pressure by manually opening any valve by pressing the red button on the air valve.

STEP 3 - Remove large wye strainer cap.

STEP 4 - Remove filter screen and clean using wire brush or compressed air (do not clean with chemical). If wye strainer is unable to be cleaned, order replacement strainer.

Note: There are two different strainers. The body of the strainer is marked either T15 or T16. If unable to see marking use a ruler to verify which length of strainer you have. See below:

• PN: 1001936  3/4" NPT T16 Wye-Strainer Replacement Screen and gasket kit
• PN: 1001937  3/4" NPT T15 Wye-Strainer Replacement Screen and gasket kit
• PN: 1001938  1" NPT T16 Wye-Strainer Replacement Screen and gasket kit
• PN: 1001938  1" NPT T15 Wye-Strainer Replacement Screen and gasket kit

STEP 5 - Replace wye strainer screen.

STEP 6 - Prime pump (see manual or click on the "How to prime your pump" tab located below for pump priming instructions).

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How to prime your pump.

 

1. DISCONNECT & FLUSH 
Close ball valve and remove the pump outlet line at the Hydra-Cannon Manifold quick-connect (Image 1). Make sure water supply to pump is turned on. Open ball valve and direct toward a drain or container to remove the majority of the air from the pump until a steady stream of water is flowing (approx. 1 min). Then close the ball valve.

2. CHECK ROTATION
Open Aqua-Lab™ Motor Starter Box (MSB) and ensure 3 phase disconnect is on. (Note: Door will not open with disconnect on. Use a 1/4” wrench or crescent wrench to turn it back on after opening door.) (MSB with blue and black Eaton disconnect can be opened without shutting off by depressing button under switch handle. Press small button with screw driver to bypass disconnect (Image 2). !WARNING! - ELECTRIC SHOCK HAZARD. HIGH VOLTAGE PRESENT INSIDE MOTOR STARTER BOX - USE CAUTION!)  Start the pump momentarily by depressing the center of the contractor (image 3). !WARNING! RUNNING THE PUMP 

BACKWARD WILL CAUSE CATASTROPHIC SYSTEM FAILURE! ENSURE THAT PUMP ROTATION IS CORRECT (image 4) as indicated by the arrow on the casting of the pump and that 200 psi can be reached. 

  • •If pump cannot regulate to 200 psi, remove pump motor cover and look at shaft to confirm correct rotation.

•Verify pump inlet pressure remains positive when running.

3. PURGE BYPASS
Start the pump and slowly open ball valve until it is wide open. Allow to run for 60 seconds to flush lines and then close valve.

4. RECONNECT
Reconnect the pump outlet line to the Hydra-Cannon Manifold and open ball valve.

5. DOUBLE CHECK
Confirm that the pump can obtain 200 psi while firing solenoids and that the pump housing (stainless steel tube) is cool to the touch after a minute in operation.

  • If housing is hot or noisy, pump did not prime correctly.
  • If pump does not prime, repeat steps 3-5.
  • If not at 200 psi and the pump is correctly rotating you may need to adjust the bypass regulator to obtain 200 psi (Image 5)

Verify pump prime 24 hours after operation to ensure prime held.  Pay close attention to the temperature of the pump shaft, the whole stainless steel area (Image 6) should be the same temperature. If it starts getting hotter than the supply water or greater than 140°, then it is likely that the pump did not prime correctly which WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO PUMPS. The motor housing (painted portion) will be hot during operation.

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The pump is making a lot of noise.

Check the following before replacing the pump.

  1. The pump may not be primed properly. Check the installation manual for pump priming instructions.
  2. Ensure that the pump is secured firmly to the base.
  3. Check to make sure the inlet is not restricted. Clean or correct the restriction.
  4. If the water regulator is chattering, try to adjust regulator down and then back up or replace the regulator if necessary.
  5. If the noise sounds like marbles in the pump, it may be caused by cavitation – increase the inlet size.
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The pump won’t start or run at full-speed.

Various issues could cause this problem. Check the following:

  1. The current sensor may not be seeing any current. Turn on one valve and verify that the red light is blinking fast. Be sure that there are at least 10 wraps of wire around the current sensor.
  2. Check to make sure that there is not a blown fuse or circuit breaker.
  3. Ensure the motor starter contactor is in working order. Replace if necessary.
  4. Check the thermal overload – it should be set to match the voltage.
  5. Make sure that the voltage is within 10% of the motor-rated voltage.
  6. Replace defective pump.
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The pump is operating, but delivering little or no water.

Several issues may cause this problem. Try the following:

  1. The pump may not be primed. Check the installation manual for pump priming instructions.
  2. The pump may be missing a phase. Check that the pump is wired according the diagram in the installation manual.
  3. There may be an inadequate water supply. Check the pressure on the inlet side of the pump to be sure that positive pressure is being maintained.
  4. You may also want to check to ensure that the piping is correctly sized, that all the connections are tight and there are no leaks and that there are no worn or defective pump parts.
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The pump operates, but will not regulate to 200 psi.

The motor has incorrect motor rotation. Reverse the rotation by interchanging 2 of the three leads. The pump should run in the direction of the arrow on the pump housing.